Rome, 25th June, 2015: Villa Borghese, Galleria and Gardens
On the Pincian hill overlooking the Fields of Mars in Rome abide two spectacular and very famous Renaissance pleasure palaces: Villa Medici, owned by the French Academy in Rome, which operates studios and sponsors a program for young visiting artists and scholars (any artist under 40 may consider applying for this); and Villa Borghese Pinciana.
Villa Borghese Pinciana
This comprises the original palace complex constructed by Flaminio Ponzio in 1613 to fulfill the commission from Cardinal Scipione Borghese, (1 September 1577 – 2 October 1633) maternal nephew of Pope Paul V, which now houses the Galleria Borghese, with one of the most influential public art collections in the world—including sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Caravaggio, Titian, Artemisia Gentilleschi and Rubens (amongst many others), Greco-Roman and Egyptian antiquities, and superb frescoes, mouldings, floors and furniture—as well as the massive Casina Villa Borghese, an 80-hectare Mannerist Park, stuffed to the canopy with follies, reconstructions and monuments.
Detail from Scenes from La Storie di Marco Furio Camillo, fresco ceiling in the Grand Salon at Villa Borghese painted by Mariano Rossi,1775 – 1779.
On 25th June, 2015, I toured Villa Borghese and the surrounding park and gardens with Gianluca Fabris of City Wonders. Entrance to the Gallery is regulated by limits placed on, both, the duration of time allowed to view the collections, and numbers of people admitted during its hours of operation. Without these limitations, the gallery would be moiled in continuous traffic jams similar to the Botticelli gallery at the Uffizi, or in front of Michelangelo’s Pièta at St. Peter’s Basillica. Openings to tour the gallery often sell out weeks in advance, especially during the height of the tourist season, and like most public sites in Italy, it is closed throughout the entire month of August (August is not the kindest month for art-lovers in Italy.) Once ticket-holders have checked their bags, they have exactly an hour and spare change to race through some of the most dazzling works of art ever created. This is why skip-the-line tours were invented, and why a tour guide is almost essential.
Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Apollo é Dafne (1622 – 1625)
(That’s my tour guide discussing something with a client behind some marble foliage.)
By all means, once a person has already scoped out where the Apollo é Dafne stands, book that return trip and spend another pitifully short hour gazing at Bernini’s amazing way with toes being turned into roots—as I may do one day if I ever get back there:
Detail of Daphne’s toes from Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Apollo é Dafne (1622 – 1625)
(And those were carved completely with chisels and hand-bores—as every art professor who taught me has pointed out—no electric drills or sanders for Bernini!)
Even within that short time span, a relatively comprehensive overview of the gallery was imparted before the final precious seconds ticked away, and “Luca” certainly knew his art history. He relayed about a month’s worth of Introduction to Western Art 101 – 103 lessons clearly, concisely and in a very entertaining fashion, along with witty observations about Pope’s ‘nipotes’, Roman fashion and décor during the Napoleanic era, 18th-Century café culture and the language of symbols.
Anyway, I don’t intend to critique tour companies and how they go about amusing and educating their clients, no matter how much I enjoyed and appreciated them. Nor do I intend to go on about the wonders of Villa Borghese, even if the gallery is one of the loveliest jewel boxes of Western art treasures anywhere.
Greco-Roman statue in the loggia at Villa Borghese, along with a display of items used by the guards.
What I would like to address is the interpretation of myths, which came up several times during my tour of the Borghese gallery, where the story of Apollo and the nymph, Daphne, for example, was interpreted as being about platonic love. When the Sun-God pursues her, Daphne calls out in terror to her father, the river god, Peneus, and is transformed into a laurel tree the moment her toes touch the water at the banks of his river, thus placing her forever beyond Apollo’s rampaging and egocentric libido.
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